Choose the basics of climbing shoes

Here we describe how climbing shoes are made and how different structures determine the comfort and performance of the shoes. Lace-up, Velcro, and Slipper

Lace-up shoes can be fine-tuned, especially "foot." By adjusting the degree of tightness of the shoelace, different shoe support performances can also be obtained. If the shoelace is loose, then the shoe is softer in the longitudinal direction; otherwise, it provides a firm support. Such shoes can have a wider range of use.

Velcro-type shoes are easy to put on and off, and the adjustment is quick and flexible. The movement of the soles of the feet is also more comfortable, but it also means that the fixing force and supporting force are relatively insufficient. Especially after a long period of climbing, the feet will feel “rolling” in the shoes. (skid)". For ordinary competitive routes or bouldering problems, the whole process of a route is only a few minutes. This is not obvious; however, in long-distance multi-stage climbing, this is a problem that must be considered. The Velcro may unintentionally open when using "plugs" or other actions that require the torsion of the foot.

In addition, slippers-type climbing shoes can also be seen. The shoe's mouth is fixed with a relatively large elastic rubber band, and some are supplemented by a zipper. This structure of the most simple shoes, the general price is relatively cheap, slipper-style shoes because there is no binding shoelaces or sticky buckle, the foot is relatively soft, and particularly sensitive, but there are insufficient fixed and supporting force, stress The time will be deformed (the degree of deformation is usually determined by the feet). Slipper-type climbing shoes are generally used in relatively thin soles, without lining, so that you can feel the slightest undulations, particularly strong on foot, and the hooks are also very easy to use. Slipper-type shoes must use very small sizes, or the technique of using the heel hook almost certainly fails. Usually suitable for indoor rock wall training, bouldering or competitive routes. In addition, due to the omission of the thickness of shoelaces and hook-and-loop fasteners, the overall height of the shoe is smaller, and it is particularly suitable for fine crack climbing, in which case a slightly larger size is required in order to allow the toes to lie flat in the shoe.

Leather and synthetic materials

The leather shoes are good in stretchability, breathable and comfortable to wear. After a period of time, the new shoes will become more fit. When choosing shoes, you should choose a smaller one, because with the increase in the use of time, the shoes will be stretched, that is, a larger range of deformation; In order to overcome this problem, some leather shoes are lined to limit the deformation range of shoes, so that The shoes can be chosen slightly larger. Synthetic shoes are lighter, softer, and less stretchable. Synthetic materials shoes are generally not as good breathability leather shoes, sweating problems for a long time wearing more serious, fortunately synthetic materials are not afraid of water, can often brush, and the cortex should not be frequent brushing. There are special footwear deodorants on the market, you can try it, there is a recipe, with liquor sprayed into the shoes, but also play a role in sterilization and deodorization.

Last type

The shape of a shoe is the shape of a shoe. The shape of the shoe determines the suitability of the shoe and how it performs. The squat type is a three-dimensional mold, and the entire shoe is wrapped and machined in the shape of a skull.

The shape of shoe lasts is divided into ordinary type and arch type, which is basically determined by the shape of the sole (mainly the arch area). The sole is therefore divided into a Board Lasted and a Slip Lasted.

The shape of the flat bottom resembles the shape of a relaxed foot, and its various parts (toes, heels, arches, etc.) have different shapes and sizes. In the case of ordinary shoes, the part on the foot is sewn together with the sole, and therefore, from the inside of the shoe, it is the sole of the shape of the foot. Arched soles are completely different. Basically, the entire shoe is made of a single piece of fabric. The sole part is sewn through a three-dimensional cut. From the inside of the shoe is a seam, not a closed sole shape.

The flat bottom is generally flat, even slightly upturned, while the arched sole produces a downward curve of the sole, towards the big toe (the whole shape is a bit like a banana). This distortion (or "asymmetrical" structure) causes the climber's body weight to concentrate on the big toe, and the concentration of power causes an advantage on the competitive or bouldering route because the concentrated forces produce more friction and can be accurately stepped on. A small fulcrum; however, this concentration of power is more painful for crack climbing or long-term wear. The overall force of the flat shoes is distributed on the forefoot of the shoe, the pressure of each part is relatively small, and the curved and arched sole is basically concentrated on the big toe. Therefore, such shoes wear particularly quickly on the toes. For this reason, users are advised to have more than two pairs of shoes of different types and uses. The overall service life of such shoes is more than twice that of a pair of shoes.

The flat bottom is generally relatively wide, and it is more comfortable to wear for a long time. It is suitable for long line climbing and crack climbing. The arched bottom is more fit and the foot arch is higher, so that better foot feeling and support can be obtained. It is suitable for climbing on difficult routes such as sports and bouldering.

Sole structure and performance

Climbing shoes vary according to the purpose of use. The sole structure is also different. The sole is divided into two layers, the midsole and the rubber sole. The midsole is sandwiched between the sole fabric and the rubber sole, and is generally made of synthetic material with different hardness and elasticity. It mainly serves as a support, and the outer rubber sole provides friction. Generally, a brand of shoes uses the same rubber. In addition to the difference in the thickness of the rubber sole, the overall hardness of the shoe has a large difference in perception, which is mainly due to the use of different midsoles. The hard and thick midsole has relatively strong supporting ability for the feet, and it is suitable for long-distance climbing of natural rock walls, which is relatively technically poor. The thin and soft soles are suitable for competitive climbing and bouldering, and of course wear is much faster. Even some rock climbing shoes are pursuing extreme sensitivity, omitting the midsole layer and directly bonding the sole rubber outside the fabric of the sole of the foot. The sole is very soft and the toes can almost “pop” the raised fulcrum. It is suitable for difficult elevation angle or eaves course, or Slab (angle less than 90°, but almost no fulcrum, completely relying on the friction of the sole) for friction surface technology.

Choose shoes

Through the above introduction we learned the basics of rock climbing shoes. The following is the use of this knowledge to choose the right shoes for us.

As a beginner, what is needed is a pair of general shoes that are more rigid, durable, and inexpensive. Remember, rock climbing shoes are typical consumables, and it's not necessary to buy so-called "advanced" shoes right from the beginning. The big problems for beginners are in the footwork. They can't accurately point and fix the body. Every time they skid, they are consuming their own plastic shoes and banknotes; so hard shoes are more durable and they are straight. When training basic techniques on the wall, you can provide relatively good support.

When you use the first pair of shoes, congratulations, you should be able to have a relatively clear concept of their own interests and goals, the second pair of shoes can better meet your needs. For enthusiasts of competitive climbing, the “sports” shoes with arched soles and toes that are most satisfying are smaller in size. This type of shoes can help the toes “catch” the fulcrums to the greatest extent on the elevation course. For some special types of rock walls, such as the climbing of particularly small and narrow rock edges (commonly referred to as “crimp” points), relatively hard soles are needed; for small caves (usually called “Pocket”), which are common on limestone, you need to compare Pointed toe tip. Lacing, gluing, and slippers are all good, but the price of the former is slightly higher. For crack climbing, flat-bottomed shoes can perform better. When using the “plugging foot” technique, in order to protect the foot, consider lined shoes or add a pair of socks. For artificial rock walls and bouldering, easy-to-wear and slip-on shoes are the most convenient.

In order to choose the right size, it is necessary to try it on your own. Mail-ordering is also a method, but often it is not possible to choose a perfectly suitable shoe. Different manufacturers, their size system is not exactly the same, half of the United States shoe size is equivalent to 2/3 of the European shoe code, such as US7 = EU40, and US7.5 = EU40 2/3, so the European shoe size The division is more refined; even if the same manufacturer, the difference in style also makes shoes of the same size have different feelings. The average size of the competitive climbing or bouldering should be smaller than the normal number two to three. The toes should be curved together. There is no gap between the climbing shoes and the feet. For the traditional climbing or long-range climbing, it is usually the first to the second. Keep your feet flat on the soles, with your toes against the front, the heels and the heel, and don't feel uncomfortable. It is not easy for beginners to choose shoes. It should also refer to this standard.